I think we've all heard the statistic that most women are wearing the wrong bra size. Depending on the salesperson, it's either 70%, 80%, or the happy-medium, 75%. I used to think that this was a fake study conducted by Victoria's Secret, like a study by Phillip Morris examining the effects of smoking. You're probably wearing the wrong bra size, so why not get a complete new set from us? However, after working as a lingerie salesperson at two different stores, I've come to the conclusion that this number, whatever it's origins, is probably close to correct.
When I started at my job in March, I was measured by a co-worker. She first told me my band size: 32. While I had been wearing a 34, I always knew that I really should have been in a 32, I just got tired of sorting through every rack to find the right size, so I settled for something close. Then she told me my cup size, and I literally yelled "What!?" I was wearing not one, but two cup sizes too small.
This seemed absurd, I was so resistant that once I got home I re-measured myself for the same result. Even after the new bras fit perfectly, this new size was just crazy. Then the statistic came back to me: 70-80% of women wearing the wrong bra size. I was basing my size not on what felt good, but on what the women around me reported themselves to be. If everyone's wearing the wrong size, it causes a kind of mass hysteria where B cups are wearing A cups because C cups are wearing B cups.
Anyone who has worked in lingerie sales can tell you that women put stock in their bra size. Once someone has it in their head that they're, for example, a 36D, it becomes part of their identity. If you tell her she's actually a G, that's scary, because in her mind, she's entering into freak territory.
In fact, it's hard not to feel that way when many brands don't carry your size. Lingerie is already a sensitive area, so the embarrassment can be multiplied when a style isn't made for you. Especially when it's a non-utilitarian style, it can feel like the brand is saying: "You aren't sexy. You don't deserve to have this. Don't you wish you were still a 36D?" I admit, I succumbed to this line of thinking, and this is why I wore a 34, knowing it was wrong.
Now that I'm wearing the right size, I feel different. My posture has improved, and it's easy to breathe, because underwire isn't digging into my ribcage. The pressure has been taken off my shoulders from wearing the wrong band size. And my breast tissue isn't being cut into by a too-tight garment. I hate the limitations of my size, but I would rather have a few well-fitting bras than a lot of poor-fitting ones.
All of this being said, here is how you measure a bra. I'd recommend a trusted friend, boyfriend, or husband help you. You should be wearing a bra without much padding for this process.
1. After you've exhaled, measure the circumference beneath your bra. The measuring tape should be parallel to the floor. If the measurement is even, add four inches; odd, five. This is your band size.
2. Measure the circumference over the widest part of your bust while your arms are by your sides. The measuring tape should again be parallel to the floor. Subtract 38 from this number. If the number is "1", you're an A cup. 2, your a B cup. Etc.
3. Once you get your size, evaluate bras carefully. The size is an estimation, it's not as important as fit. Checklist:
* The band should be parallel to the floor, and shouldn't rise above the band in the front. If it does rise, your band size is too big. If it digs in, it's too small.
* You should be able to fit two fingers under your straps, but that fit should be snug.
* You should fill out the cups, but not burst out. Raise your arms. If you're coming out the bottom, go up a cup size. Bend down and shake. Again, if you're coming out, go up.
* The center panel should be flat against your breastbone. If it's not, you're wearing a cup size too small.
* The underwire shouldn't dig into your breast tissue, it should encircle it. If it's right everywhere else but the underwire is off, don't buy it.
Some stores conduct quality fittings, but watch out for stores that don't take the time to go into the fitting room with you, or don't seem to be taking a careful measurement. These stores may intentionally tell you the wrong bra size, just so you will buy a lot more to remedy your situation. I can't speak to all Victoria's Secret locations, but I know that some of them take part in this misleading practice. I would know, I worked at one.
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